Line two plates or rimmed baking sheets—one with parchment paper and one with 1/3 cup granulated sugar. Boil 1/2 cup sugar with 1/2 cup water in a saucepan, then remove from heat. Add cranberries and rosemary sprigs, coating them with syrup; let sit for 10 minutes. Strain and roll cranberries and rosemary in sugar to coat, then let dry uncovered at room temperature for 30 minutes to 3 days.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Spread pistachios on baking sheet, toast for 7 minutes until fragrant and slightly golden but still green. Cool, then pulse in food processor until finely ground.

Preheat oven to 350°F and prepare an 18×13 inch rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray and parchment paper. Combine granulated sugar, brown sugar, and salt. Beat eggs using a stand mixer starting medium speed to foamy then gradually add sugar mixture; beat progressively until thick, pale, and ribbon stage. Mix in oil and vanilla. Sift dry ingredients (flour, cocoa, espresso powder if using, baking powder, baking soda) into egg mixture and fold until just combined. Spread batter evenly and tap to remove air bubbles. Bake 10-12 minutes until puffed and a tester is clean. Immediately loosen edges, dust with cocoa powder, cover with towel and baking sheet, then invert. Peel off parchment, dust second side with cocoa, and roll cake in towel starting from short edge. Cool rolled cake on rack about 50 minutes.

Melt bittersweet chocolate and cool slightly. Beat cream cheese, powdered sugar, vanilla, espresso powder (optional), and salt in mixer until smooth. Gradually add cold heavy cream while beating to medium-stiff peaks. Stir some cream mixture into chocolate then fold chocolate into cream mixture gently. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Unroll cooled cake carefully; spread filling evenly over surface. Re-roll without towel in same direction and refrigerate while making ganache.

Heat heavy cream in microwave until bubbling hot; add chopped bittersweet chocolate and salt, let sit one minute, then stir until smooth. Chill in refrigerator, stirring every 10 minutes until thick and spreadable (20-25 minutes).

Trim ends of cake to reveal spiral; cut a small angled piece from one end to act as a branch. Place longer cake seam-side down on platter; position smaller piece angled against long cake. Spread ganache over cake, leaving spiral ends visible. Use spatula or fork to create bark texture. Optionally, sprinkle pistachio soil around cake and decorate with sugared cranberries and rosemary. Dust lightly with powdered sugar. For clean slices, use a hot dry knife and wipe between cuts.